Archive for August, 2009

Making Your Landing Loop Float

Sunday, August 23rd, 2009

Here are a couple of ideas. I tried them and both worked.

The first is one that will look great. Purchase a Noodle used for swimming pools. I did mine in light blue. Be sure it is round and has a 3/4 inch hole drilled down the middle. Most of them do. Cut two pieces about 10 inches long and keep the balance for the kids. Trim all but about 3/8 inch of the foam off each piece. I used a coping saw. It worked fine. You should now have two tubs that have a 3/4 inch hole down the middle and about 3/8 of an inch of foam around the hole. Slit the tubs down the length on ONE side and place a tub over each side of the white metal frame between the two bent angles. Take a piece of Velcro or a piece of waxed twine and tie it around each piece so the tubs do not fall off when you use the Landing Loop. For added floatation of the pole purchase a 3/4 inch diameter (real) cork and push it down the narrow end of the extention pole (the end with the hole in the side). Push the cork down far enough so the frames slides into the end and locks into place easily. The total cost should be less than $5.00. You can get the cork in a fishing store or I got mine at a hardware store.

You can also go into Home Depot and buy a foam pipe insulation that has a 3/4 inch hole down the middle. It is gray in color and has about 3/8 inch foam around the hole. It fits perfectly round our frame. It comes already slit down the side and has been pre-glued along the seams. Cut two pieces about 10 inches long and place them around the two arms of your Landing Loop. Peal off the wax paper and press the glued edges together. You can buy a piece 4 feet long for about $2.50. Save the extra piece, you may need it for replacement pieces. You should also get the 3/4 inch diameter cork(about $.70) and push it down the pole as above. This solution is not as pretty as the above method, but it works.

Your Landing Loops will now float long enough for you to retrieve them if they fall into the water. If you follow the above procedures, both the pole and the frame will float separately if one should fall into the water. Some water will seep into the extension pole while it is in the water. Be sure to rinse off all the pieces if salt water is involved. Allow them to dry thoroughly before storing your Landing Loop regardless of the type of water.  Sorry, we can not be responsible for damage caused by salt or coroded internal parts of the pole.

See you next week

Captain Al

ADDITIONAL TIPS FOR LANDING LOOP USERS

Sunday, August 9th, 2009

I assume most of those reading this blog are interested in becoming better captains. I would guess that most of us are weekend or occasional boat captains. The Landing Loop was developed for us. It will allow us to be less than perfect docking captains. We can be 4-6 six feet away from the pier. It will get our lines on to the dock cleat faster. It will eliminate the need to jump off our boat. It will reduce injuries and expensive repairs. Here are a few more tips to help.

1. Be sure to watch the video and pre mark your docking lines. It will make using the Landing Loop much easier and faster. Watch the way Stacy holds the pole while extending it.

2. Spend time teaching your mate how to us the Landing Loop so you are a team rather than two people arguing with each other. Practice together. It may save your marriage.
It will also enhance your boating safety.

3. Get prepared for every docking situation long before you approach the dock. Have the line placed on the tips of the Landing loop. Have your mate in position and ready. Have the cut end of the line placed through the toes of the boat cleat. Pull four or five feet of the cut end through the cleat and leave it on the deck. Have the pole extended. See how we did it on the video.

4. All that is left at that final docking moment is then placing the Landing Loop frame over the cleat on the dock and then at the captain instruction pulling the line tight. By having the eatra line through the toe of the boat cleat, you will be able to bend down and pickup that end of the docking line. You will have both ends of your line secured at the same time. The cleats on the boat will buffer the weight of the boat rather than your mate trying to pull the boat in. As soon as the line is extended to the dock the mate can pull the line as tight as is needed. Be sure you use a 25-35 foot line. It will give you and your mate much more flexibility and maneuverability during tie up. You could be 5-8 feet from the dock. Your bow may be 4-6 feet above the dock. You have 4-5 feet extra on deck. Plus you are probably 5 feet + tall. A 15 foot line is just not long enough.

5. I used a Landing Loop on my partner’s 65 foot boat which had double side thrusters. There was no one on the dock to help. I secured the bow line first using the Landing Loop. His bow was about five feet above the dock. While he moved the stern closer to the dock I went to the stern. As he got within 5 feet I was able to secure the stern with the Landing Loop. Yes, he had double side thrusters. The stern of his boat was 4 feet above the water. I would have had to jump over his railings if we did not use the Landing Loop. That was not going to happen. I’m a senior citizen.

6. The Landing Loop has forced us to plan ahead before docking. It will help you the same way if you allow it. You will become a better captain, even if you have been docking a boat for many years. It’s a tool… It’s a safety device…. Learn how to make it work for you. It may take three or four attempts to perfect your use of the Landing Loop. You will enjoy your boating more and your mates will be much happier as well.

Thanks for visiting…
Gadgets Unlimited, Inc.
Captain Al